Build one or a set of these handy little tables in a single weekend
Step 7: Carefully measure the width of the kerfs you just cut so you can make the splines (D) that glue into them as thick as your kerfs are wide.
Step 8: Using your drill press set-up, bore the 3/8-inch holes in the ends of the top slats (A) and the sides of the side rails
(B), where they attach to the legs (C).
Step 9: Dry assemble and clamp the side rails (B) together. Be careful to maintain squareness during assembly. Once
you're confident of a proper fit, apply glue to the mitered ends, insert the corner splines and clamp the assembly together.
Step 10: Using a dado blade, cut the half-lap joints on two sides of each leg top (see detail A). Make them 2-inches high x 3/4-inch deep to accept your side rails.
Step 11: Glue and clamp the legs (C) into the four corners of the side rail assembly, as shown. Be sure everything is square.
Step 12: Once the glue has dried, use the dowel holes you drilled in the rail sides as guides while you bore the other half of your reinforcing dowel hole in the leg tops with a 3/8-inch bit and portable drill.
Step 13: Glue and clamp the top slats (A) to the side rails (B), using 1/2-inch wide spacer blocks at each end to keep
everything square and even during assembly. Once each slat is clamped firmly, move your spacers to the next
position and install the next slat.
Step 14: Once the slats have dried in position, remove the clamps. Using the dowel holes drilled in the slat ends as guides, bore the reinforcing dowel holes in the top edges of the rails with a 3/8-inch bit in your portable drill.
Step 15: Sand smooth and apply a finish, if you prefer. Remember that although outdoor woods usually require no finish, spar varnish or exterior grade polyurethane will provide added protection and longevity.